The Dish Restaurant Review: Parcel 104

Ask Santa Clarans where to go for a celebration, and many will point you to Parcel 104, a gem of a restaurant located in a rather worn Marriott Hotel near Mission College. Parcel 104 sat on land designated “parcel 104” about a hundred years earlier, a humble pear orchard. You’ll find pear shaped salt and pepper shakers on the tables, and an open fireplace glowing in the hearth. The dining room is awash in earth tones, the furniture, large and comfortable. Such an ambience is conducive to deal-making of both the business and romantic kind.

With new executive chef Robert Sapirman at the helm, Parcel 104 continues to offer “seasonal farm fresh American fare,” meaning the menu changes daily depending on what’s at the markets. Knowledgeable servers are as apt to know where your fish was swimming just yesterday (Alaska), as what it was wearing when it arrived.

But what sets Parcel 104 apart from other restaurants of its class is the food. The restaurant uses high quality ingredients, many from local farms. Everything comes impeccably plated, a feast for the eyes as well as the mouth. You may choose an appetizer, an entrée, and a “sweet course” for a prix fixe of $64. A five course “indulgence tasting” runs $79. Indulgence pairings by sommelier Doug MacKay are an additional $48.

Each dish is identified by its place of origin. Happy Boy Farm Heirloom Tomatoes were tasty enough only to need a drizzle of basil aioli and a sourdough crouton. A crisped pancetta wheel added a whimsical contrast to the tomato slices. The Sierra Foothills Quail is no bigger than your fist, and perches atop a hill of the snappy yellow wax beans that my dining companion exclaimed were “out of this world!” (Iacopi Farms, actually). The “Land vs. Sea” Tartare gets points for creativity, but the chopped bison (the land) had sinewy bits that had me swimming towards the “sea” portion of my plate – a mound of salmon atop tiny cubes of cucumber.

In fact, three of the seven entrees the night I was there hailed from the sea. You’ll like the Alaskan Halibut even if fish isn’t your favorite: the mild white flesh is tender and juicy in its heirloom tomato broth, atop a chunky puree of bright English peas. The Sofrito Grilled Hawaiian Ono is a drier fish but still mild-tasting. It gets a dollop of rich avocado “yum yum,” and is served with a ceviche of crunchy rock shrimp. Yum yum, indeed.

My only complaint (besides the sinewy bison) has little to do with the food quality, and more to do with bathroom location. Alas, why is it that such a classy establishment makes their guests walk half a mile to the bathroom, located near the convention rooms of the Marriott hotel?

On the bright side, there’s nothing like a little stroll to aid digestion, particularly if you’ve got your sights set on dessert. Which you should, if only for the fun of deconstructing all the delightful goodies of Pastry Chef Carlos Sanchez. His Crème Brulee is legendary, but anything you choose will be good.

In Four Scoops a Day, four perfect spheres of sorbet cool their heels in a tall glass, looking as if they’d just been snatched from the air from some culinary juggling act. Strawberry, nectarine, apricot, and pluot (hybrid of apricot and plum) provided a grown up rainbow sherbet of colors.

With food this fresh and delicious, forget about finding an occasion to visit Parcel 104. Simply go to enjoy the best of the season’s bounties.

Note: All reviews are conducted anonymously and are typically based on one visit. The Santa Clara Weekly pays for all meals. For comments, questions, or suggestions, email Stacey Lee at staceyhlee@yahoo.com.